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Colourful personalities of bygone Hambantota

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By Upali Salgado

Hambantota is today sparkling with great strides made in the area of development. Although much has been written about the prospective economic benefits of the region which serves the neighbouring six districts, this article refers to the unique biography and an interesting history, illuminating the lives of several notable personalities.

Elsie Cook FRGS, a renowned geographer of Ceylon, had in a distant 1931 publication said, "Magama, a few miles west of Kirinda was founded in the fourth century BC and was a place of importance for some times. Thorny scrub jungle vegetation with ebony and satinwood trees were found in plenty." The bio diversity of this historic region around Bundala has over long time been the temporary migratory home of several rare species of colourful birds who travel annually, in formations across the seas from Australia during their winter season.

The fact that both Theravada and Mahayana Buddhism flourished in Hambantota region (encompassing a radius of about 40 square miles), during the third to ninth centuries is evident when one sees several large stupas and archeological finds. The ancient Mulkirigala temple, the Sadagiri Dagoba, the Yatala Chetiya near Tissamaharamaya, the Tissamaha Seya built by King Kavan Tissa renovated exactly 100 years ago in 1812, under leadership of two devotees, Mudaliyar Sudirukku Francis Jayawickrema of Matara and N. Amarasinghe of Tangalle, the Situlpahuwa complex studded with several caves which were the abodes of pious meditative monks, the Kiri Vehera and the popular Hindu shrine at Kataragama, are well known today.

Due to the paucity of rain which is seasonal and the harsh warm climate, the scanty population there migrated westward. Many who lived along the coastal belt took to fishing with important centers being Tangalle, Hambantota and Kirinda. The hamlet by the sea named Kirinda, is historically known as it was here that the eldest daughter of King Kelani Tissa was found drifting in a boat sent out to a rough sea, for wrongs committed by the king, an as an act of penitence. Finally, King Kavantissa of Ruhuna married the peerless Princess Vihara Maha Devi who came ashore at Kirinda. Beside the Indigenous Sinhala population, history records that in recent times there came to settle from abroad in Hambantota a small group of Malay families, who are now recognized as Sri Lankan citizens.

Moving on to British colonial times, a clear picture of rural life in those far off days is evoked when one reads author Vijayatunga’s novel "Grass Under My Feet." Also, relevant in this regard, the published diaries of Leonard Woolf, a Civil Servant who served people in a very caring manner from his office at the Hambantota kachcheri. He has correctly portrayed in his despatches to the then Governor, the poverty there existed and simple lifestyles of village folk whose outlook on life was seeped in age old customs. The bullock cart was the form of transport and medical care and education was sadly lacking. The oil lamp, the family ox, the plough and Chena cultivation helped the villager. The Kachcheri headed by the Government Agent and his group of Mudaliyars and Vida ne Arachch ies comprised the administrative machinery. Justice was dispensed quite often by the Gamsaba (courts).

Besides Woolf, there were five more colourful personalities, namely, Englebrecht who is an unforgettable character. This sunburnt, hard- hearted, bearded Boer who fondly sported a large brimmed felt hat (often today seen in the South African Veldet) was a notable figure in Hambantota town. He lived in a tent and moved about town in a wagon drawn by oxen, using a long whip in hand. According to Dr. R. L. Brohier FRGS OBE, the celebrated author of several interesting publications on Ceylon, "Well ,if you do not know Englebrecht, he was a free starter and Scout Rider in the Boer War of South Africa under General Dewet. He was captured by the British and brought to Ceylon, with about 100 more soldiers as prisoners of war around 1895." They were stationed at Dlyatalawa, where incidentally, there is today, the much neglected Boer War cemetery hidden away overlooking the Army Rifle Range. In 1903, there were only five Boer prisoners left. All others had died of small pox.

These five irreconcilable men sturdily declined to take an oath of allegiance to recognize King Edward as their sovereign. Englebrecht finally found himself a home at Hambantota and enjoyed a government given daily allowance of Rs. 1/25. The GA also gave him an appointment as "Game Sancturary Keeper Yala". When the World War 1914 - 18 raged, the notorius German naval Destroyer, S S Emden had sunk several British ships off the Hambantota seas. A rumour gained momentum that Englegrecht, who had German blood, was supplying food to the captain of the S S Emden by way of slaughtered cattle.

The story is said that, the captain of the ship used to send his small "Bum Bum boats" at night to the Kirinda Bay to collect the beef. Englebrecht was arrested and sent to Kandy where he languished in solitary confinement, without trial. The Governor received several petitions to release him but they were all ignored. On one occasion, his solitary confinement, was taken up in the House of Commons. He died heart- broken, on March 25, 1922, 91 years ago.

Another two interesting characters of the Hambantota district were Gajaman Nona, the handsome lady who usually sported a long colourful Dutch style ankle length flared gown with a jacket having lace to match. Her elegant looking charming statue, barely five feet tall, stands today on the main highway at Nonagama Junction, close to Hambantota. She was the undisputed Queen of Sinhala Poetry in Ruhuna, and had the blessed ability to write and recite fluently with a mellifluous voice.

Gajaman Nona was baptized at Milagiriya church on March 10, 1766, and took a baptized name as Dona Isabella Koranelia Perumal. She learnt her Sinhala under the famous Panditha Korathota `Hamuduruwo’, and after the demise of her husband, (whose job was to tame wild elephants) she had lengthy correspondence in rich and romantic Sinhala verse, usually having a pun in the language used, with her friend, the handsome Elapatha Mudaliyar of Ratnapura. Elapatha Mudaliyar had been in his youth a Samanera Bhikkhu named Dharmaratana, and was equally learned to reply in attractive Sinhala verse.

Another notable character who often visited the Hambantota Kachcheri was John D’Oyley, a Cambridge educated scholar. He came to Ceylon as a Civil Servant and served at the Hambantota Kachcheri around 1800. He mastered the Sinhala language and when Gajaman Nona appeared to be impoverished. she had addressed to D’Oyley, a petition written in delightful Sinhala verse seeking financial relief for her living. D’Oyley appreciated the language of the plea and was moved to personally meet the lady. The two of them had met in a cordial atmosphere and having enjoyed thebest of wine, the Britisher appreciating her predicament and learning, granted her a Nindagam (a vast acreage of land) now known as "Nonagama", where today her statue stands.

In the Bundala forest there lived alone for several years in a Kuti, erected by the humble villagers, an exemplary monk of English origin named Ven. Ganavira Thera. He often went out on his alms rounds (Pindapatha) and passed away in 1965.

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